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Afternoon rush hour in Muscat and there’s not a single camel in sight.

It’s so laid-back that any form of jostling might constitute a riot.I’ve also discovered the heat has melted the cover on my i Phone in my trouser pocket.Motorbiking in Oman definitely requires lightweight gear to cope with scorching temperatures that can reach up to 45C.Now roads in the main port area of Mutrah are only clogged with hefty four-wheel drives.Their owners sit inside their off-roaders behind heavily tinted glass, soaking up the air conditioning and clutching their mobile phones.I set my helmet down on a coffee house table by the souk entrance to watch the world go by.

There’s a healthy mix of locals and tourists, but navigating the souk for the first time can be tricky.

One of his most palpable achievements is the remarkable sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, a 20-minute ride from the souk.

Built to mark the 30th year of his reign, it can accommodate 20,000 worshippers in its main prayer hall.

My bike’s sat nav is set for Jebel Shams – the highest peak in the Al Hajar range.

The first 30 minutes escaping Muscat are hot and uncomfortable.

Fortunately, it’s built on a slight slope, so heading back downhill works better than any map.